Çölgeçen, a Turk in exile in the Ottoman province of
Fezzan, southwestern Libya, escaped his confinement by
setting out across the Great Sahara Desert to the south.
Three weeks into the escape, in the wild desolation of the
desert, Çölgeçen encountered someone he could never
have imagined he would.
The following excerpt is taken from Çölgeçen's "How
I Crossed the Great Sahara Desert". For TNT'S
summary of Çölgeçen's adventure see
How I Crossed the Great Sahara Desert //
Hadîce?...
Here we found a woman who knew Turkish and, in
fact, very good Istanbul Turkish. She treated us all
lovingly, like her children. She said to us “you have
the Istanbul aroma about you.” and her eyes teared
up.
She was about 60 years-old but still very attractive – as
fact, very good Istanbul Turkish. She treated us all
lovingly, like her children. She said to us “you have
the Istanbul aroma about you.” and her eyes teared
up.
She was about 60 years-old but still very attractive – as
the saying goes, “the mosque is ruined but its mihrab
stands erect.”
stands erect.”
This woman told us that “the bandits are awaiting Ali
Âmirî’s convoy.” The road that goes from Fizan to Kavar is very
near to here. The bandits have been hanging around this place for
about a month, harassing the people and demanding food. Some of
the wayward village men have joined with the bandits because the prize
is so big – the chance to pillage 300 camels-worth of goods. First they
robbed the people of Cebâ and the others fled in desperation to Kavar
and the forests. Now, they’ve attacked this place and if it continues the
people here will have to find refuge elsewhere.”
The woman advised us to behave carefully, adding that while
we were in the village she wouldn’t leave us and would keep us
informed. She added that “as long as you stay in the lodge, they won’t
attack you since you’re under the protection of the Sünusis. The shaikh
has gone to Kavar. If he was here he would be of great help to you.”
Her name was Hadîce and she spoke to us in our native
tongue. She was from here but the Tauregs had kidnapped
her in her youth, took her to Han and from there to
Gadamis, where they sold her. From hand to hand she
went to Tripoli and then to Istanbul. Her last master
tongue. She was from here but the Tauregs had kidnapped
her in her youth, took her to Han and from there to
Gadamis, where they sold her. From hand to hand she
went to Tripoli and then to Istanbul. Her last master
was the head of the Naval School on Heybeli Island,
Said Paşa. (This Said Paşa was a great navy man who
did great things for both the navy and especially the
Naval School.) Hadîce was Said Paşa’s daughter’s
Said Paşa. (This Said Paşa was a great navy man who
did great things for both the navy and especially the
Naval School.) Hadîce was Said Paşa’s daughter’s
nanny and when the girl married, Said Paşa gave Hadîce
her freedom. She couldn’t stop singing the praises of
both Said Paşa’s wife and girls. She kept saying “Ahhh”,
as her eyes filled with tears. What a wonderful thing it is
to do good deeds! A concubine who was treated
her freedom. She couldn’t stop singing the praises of
both Said Paşa’s wife and girls. She kept saying “Ahhh”,
as her eyes filled with tears. What a wonderful thing it is
to do good deeds! A concubine who was treated
well by Turks doesn’t forget it and now we are the
recipients of her good deeds. And we pray with
respect for the souls of Said Paşa and his family.
recipients of her good deeds. And we pray with
respect for the souls of Said Paşa and his family.
The woman was in a fuss trying to take care of us, offering milk and
dates.
Then, she explained more about her story. After
gaining her freedom, she was stricken with
homesickness and, despite many invitations, she went to
Hicaz for the hajj and from there to Tripoli, ultimately
returning to her home here. I wondered if we’ll be able
Then, she explained more about her story. After
gaining her freedom, she was stricken with
homesickness and, despite many invitations, she went to
Hicaz for the hajj and from there to Tripoli, ultimately
returning to her home here. I wondered if we’ll be able
to return to our homeland and the woman raised both
her hands and said “God willing, you will be reunited
with your mother, father, siblings and your country.”
her hands and said “God willing, you will be reunited
with your mother, father, siblings and your country.”
The Sultan of the village came and Hadîce translated for us.
He said that tomorrow he would give us a man and a camel. We could
send word to the French garrison at Bilma from Kavar. In the evening
they brought us plentiful amounts of dough made of “gasba” (yellow
corn). They boil the corn flour in water and garnish it with clover to
make a meal. It had been days since we’d had a hot meal so we just
about attacked the dish. Afterwards, we writhed on the straw layed out
on the stones because of the mosquitoes, which were like a hive of
bees. There is nowhere else in the world where mosquitoes attack
human beings worse than they do here.
It was impossible to sleep and, at the same time, we were
fearful of a raid, in spite of the assurances that Hadîce gave us. With
the dawn, Hadîce came and brought milk. Evidently, during the night
she had gone into the forest and got cow milk for us. The cows cannot
live in the village on account of the mosquitos. While we drank the
milk the nursing young girl came to say farewell. With Hadîce as
translator, we thanked her and gave her lots of presents. She left
happily....
Çölgeçen encountered Hadîce somewhere near Djado,
Niger, south of the Libyan border, en route to Bilma.
Niger, south of the Libyan border, en route to Bilma.
The Naval High School on Heybeyliada, Istanbul,
where Hadîce worked for the commandant, Said Paşa,
as his daughter's nanny.
where Hadîce worked for the commandant, Said Paşa,
as his daughter's nanny.
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