TNT History Archives: From Mosul to Van, Via Hakkari (1911)/Part I

//Ed. note: This Mosul-Van travel log was written in 1911
and translated into Ottoman Turkish from German by
one "Captain Yusuf Rıza" of the Ottoman Army's
General Headquarters's Second Office.  Yusuf Riza may
have been the original author, since his initials are at
the end of the companion travel log from Mosul to 
Aleppo. See this link for the related TNT report:
Mosul-Aleppo

The writer explained that he was on "excavation duty"
at the behest of the German government, perhaps
seconded to the Germans by the Ottoman Army.  There
is essentially no mention anything archeology-related
in this Mosul-Van travel log, whereas in the Mosul-
Aleppo travel log there were numerous, albeit 
undetailed, references to ancient ruins.//

This map is one of three accompanying this
Mosul-Van travel log and it shows the writer's
caravan's route from Mosul (bottom-left) to 
Imadiye (top-center) in today's northern Iraq.



Translated from German by Captain Yusuf Rıza, assigned to the
Second Office of the General Headquarters.

Including 3 maps of the journey.

İstanbul

Military Printing Office – Süleymaniye

1331 (1915)

Information about the Mosul - Van journey:

Herewith, information about the first part of my trip from Assyria to
Trabzon in the summer of 1911, when I was assigned to excavation
duties by the German government.   Below is information about the
Mosul-Van leg of my journey:

The normal caravan road from Mosul to Van goes through Zakho,
to Sa'rud and Bitlis and from there along Lake Van's southern coast
to Van. In the summer season this route does not present major
difficulties.  On the other hand, the little-known route from Mosul
through central Kurdistan via Imadiye to Çölemerik (today's Hakkari)
and Başkale to Van is quite troublesome, especially for load-laden
caravans.

The difficulty is especially evident in the mountainous areas because,
other than the paths that run between the villages built on hill slopes,
there is nothing resembling a road.  In addition, besides the hot season
from July to September, at other times heavy snowfall and racing
streams block transportation.  But, in particular, the lack of security
makes the Mosul-Van path through here disadvantageous.

Since the region where the Nestorians are situated is surrounded by
Kurds there is no lack of brigandry.  Consequently, travelling through
such a region is not the least bit pleasant.  When the traveller crosses
the border into the Christians' land he is brought to the village chief
and made to pay this chief a large sum of money. 

As the result of the aforementioned security situation and the natural
obstacles, it takes a total of 16 days to make the trip via this 250-
kilometer route from Mosul to Van.  The route is mostly northward,
with the middle and last portion following the upper branch of the
Zab River. 

The land passed through can be separated into three sections:

-- The land that extends from Mosul to İmadiye, where the Kurds live, is
rather mountainous but there are no steep or sharp rocks.  The valleys
are wide and cultivated.  The slopes are covered with oak and other
trees. 

-- From İmadiye to Çölemerik (Hakkari), where the Nestorians live, is
mountainous.  The streams race violently through narrow canyons,
making the building of homes and villages on the banks impossible.
Consequently, all the villages have been built like stair-steps on the
slopes.  Nevertheless, the steep and deep valleys with the fearsome
streams hurtling through them are quite a sight to see.

-- From Çölemerik the land changes again and is comprised of
Kurdistan pastures that resemble those of southern Erzurum.  Rising
through long and wide valleys, with some snow-covered peaks
nearby, the upper Zab's water course reaches Başkale.

This 1885 map shows "Amadiah" (İmadiye) at lower 
left and the Zab River (dotted line) up to "Djdoulamerk"
(Çölemerik/Hakkari).

In the first portion, from Mosul to İmadiye, the population is mostly
comprised of Arabs and Kurds, with the Kurds being more prevalent
in the mountains.  Between İmadiye and Çölemerik, the population
alternates between Nestorians and Kurds, actually all the way to
Başkale.  Armenians are found mostly in the area between Çölemerik
and Başkale.

The roads here run through mountainous areas that are so dangerous
that is is nearly impossible to make the transit without an accident.
In fact, on this road it is commonplace to have to ask the natives for
help with the animals.  

Our caravan left Mosul on 23 June and then reached the Yezidi village
of  Ba-Adri, where Yezidi Chief Ali Bey was famously murdered in
1912.  The land up to this point was rather uninteresting.  A limestone
mountain rises in back of Ba-Adri village.  Extending beyond, there are
a couple of hill ranges of modest altitude, with short oak trees on some
of the slopes. 

After passing this sacred Adri village, one comes to a pleasant valley
filled with fruits and vegetables, beyond which is another village with
this same name.  It is impossible not to be amazed at the plethora of
water sources in this valley.  Subsequently, one passes the Gomul
stream, from where the village of Bavyan is visible.  A Yezidi
guesthouse and their fire temples are found in this village, which has
great and ancient trees.  After sunset, every corner of the guesthouse is
lit by thousands of candles, providing a wondrous sight indeed.  Within
the temple, candles burn day and night over the grave of Shaikh Adri!



Heading from here towards İmadiye, one reaches the Yezidi village of
Murara, which has orchards and gardens.  After that there is the Kurdish
village of Şebendari, behind which is a 1,600-meter hill that is snow-
covered even in the summer months.  The Turağarga Hills run to the
north and their many waterways flow into the Karasu, which empties
into the Zab. From the Yezidi villages on the left slopes of these high
hills İmadiye can be seen.  

There is an English school and another building in the village of Yebadi.
The Nestorians have assumed the duties of English missionaries here
and the name of the community is the "Archbishop of Canterbury
Mission".  The community has a second establishment in Kochan
village near Çölemerik.  The Nestorian Patriarch Mars Şimon is
resident in Çölemerik.  

İmadiye is essentially fortified by nature.  The roads into the city from
east and west are dominated by an ancient fortress with a minaret in
ruins, evidence that the city had seen good days in the past.  In the
summer the people of İmadiye head for the high summer pastures
and sleep in their tents there.



//END of PART I//